Learning how to efficiently catch wind generated swell on a prone paddleboard has been a fun process to learn. I first started paddling on a prone board as a lifeguard. Over the years I have dabbled in paddling but not venturing offshore much with the intent of riding swell. Catching open ocean swell involves thinking about the interplay between wind, current, swell, tide.... in order to put yourself in the best position to fly across the surface of the water. It's an amazing feeling to be riding the wind, face hovering inches from the salty water. Surfing, going up and down the face of a breaking wave, is a completely different experience. On a prone board, we are riding the wind swell that is in front of us. You can feel the swell pass under your board, the nose dipping down, then you paddle into the passing swell and latch on behind it, letting it pull you along. Several years ago I went to a weekend long dance workshop where several different styles were taught. The subtleties of riding a prone board are comparable to that of micro blues dancing. Other types of dance involved big moves, compressing and extending. Micro blues captures the essence of the movements. Much like how catching swell on a prone board compares to standing up on a breaking wave near shore. Some days, the ocean is easier to read, other days the puzzle pieces are rather elusive. The board functions much like a cork when you pull it under water, it shoots up. Weight distribution and timing are key. If you shift your weight back and down, the board will propel forward. Knee paddling is more efficient, but more difficult and physically taxing on the body. There is a steep learning curve and nothing substitutes for spending time practicing. The fun part is putting everything together and trying to crack the code on a given day.

Paddle

Hilo Bay has a two mile long breakwall, semi enclosing what was once pristine water. I’ve been on the wrong end of a few staph infections paddling after a rain. There has been a movement to modify or remove part of the breakwall to allow more water flow. The years long study by the Army Corp just concluded, and they recommended no modifications. Pretty disappointing, but hopefully a change will happen! Until then, paddling on the open ocean side of the breakwall makes for fun paddles! https://www.clearhilobay.com

Through the Lens

Island Essence

Footage shot on Super 8 film camera by Chris Damon:

Wildfires burning in the back of my mind
Back to a time
When things were simple by design


Before News was a commodity
Bought and sold on our hopes and fears
The made up threats assaulting our money, family, and modesty


Now we are just scrolling our way to hell
Our heads, better off under the sand
Resistance is a choice that begins within
Holding close, the truths we refuse to sell


All the lies and greed we are forced to see
Are an illusion created
To stoke a corrupt economy


Some say that God is dead
And some say that God is available for a price to pay
All the while our time, we give away


Now we are just scrolling our way to hell
Our heads, better off under the sand
Resistance is a choice that begins within
Holding close, the truths we refuse to sell


Wildfires burning in the back of my mind
Back to a time
When things were simple by design


Although simple was never the case
Generational manipulations
Have always been in place


Forced to choose a side
From transmissions meant to divide
Makes it easy to be exploited when
Blindfolds cover our eyes and dimly lit face

Scrolling our way to Hell

Fatherhood

Watching the world unfold
Through his eyes
Hazy morning light
Soak the walls
We lay on the floor
Without a worry
Coffee grounds dust the counter
Unwashed dishes winking from the sink
His smile and giggle confirm
That all dark skies will be
Gilded gold

Across

"...And you yell to yourself and you throw down yer hat Sayin', "Christ do I gotta be like that Ain't there no one here that knows where I'm at Ain't there no one here that knows how I feel Good God Almighty THAT STUFF AIN'T REAL" No but that ain't yer game, it ain't even yer race You can't hear yer name, you can't see yer face You gotta look some other place And where do you look for this hope that yer seekin' Where do you look for this lamp that's a-burnin' Where do you look for this oil well gushin' Where do you look for this candle that's glowin' Where do you look for this hope that you know is there And out there somewhere And your feet can only walk down two kinds of roads Your eyes can only look through two kinds of windows Your nose can only smell two kinds of hallways You can touch and twist And turn two kinds of doorknobs You can either go....." -Excerpt from "Last Thoughts on Woody Guthrie"

Landscapes Mountains, deserts, twlights Old highways and scenic byways Skeleton ruins and lost visions Long horizions seen through loving eyes With big adventures under inspired skies Cross country roadtrip with my love

Virginia to California roadtrip Marriage and Family Stopping at beautiful locations along the way for bike rides and trails. I feel extremly lucky that my Dad gave us his truck for the journey.

(Chesapeake Bay)

(Virginia Creeper Trail)

(Smoky Mountains)

(Eureka Springs, Arkansas)

(New Mexico)

(Wind River Range)

(Yellowstone)

(Sawtooth)

(Crater Lake)

(Redwoods)